“The most challenging aspect of creating portraits in natural light is that it’s unpredictable, but that’s also what I love the most about it,” the Germany-based photographer Nina Masic tells us. “I can go into a shoot and try to achieve a certain image that I have in mind, but more often than not, I see some moment—some turn of the light—that’s just there waiting to be noticed. I love that feeling when you are inspired by an instant that you can’t plan for or anticipate.”
Natural light and portrait photography have gone hand-in-hand for decades. Clarence H. White was a master of natural light, as was Herb Ritts. Richard Avedon famously employed a simple white seamless background and natural light for many of his portraits. With this in mind, we asked ten talented photographers to share their insights for harnessing the power of daylight, whether you’re working indoors or outdoors. These are their tips.
1. Use a reflector
This was the number one tip among the nine pros we interviewed: you’ll need a reflector to bounce light onto your subject’s face and fill in any shadows. “My favourite tool for natural light portraits is hands-down a great reflector,” the New York City-based photographer Claudia Paul says.
“I love one that is called a trigrip reflector from Manfrotto (formerly Lastolite). I personally like the soft silver. It has a white and a silver/white striped side. This gives you a little bit more punch but without being too strong. The reflector is also unique and can double as a (two stop) diffusion as well. And the grip comes in super handy if you need to hold it yourself or just make it easier for someone else to hold it in the perfect position.”
2. Do some scouting
“Location scouting is helpful if you have the time,” Claudia explains. “Go to your spot at the same time of day that you plan on working with your subject. This way, you can see where the sun is at that time and figure out the best spot for your shoot. There are some really useful apps that can help you determine the direction of the sun in any location, any time of the year. A few that I like from the Apple App Store are Sun Seeker, Light Trac, and also Magic Hour.
“A little trick to do when you don’t have a person with you: Hold up your hand in front of you and face the back of it towards you. Then start moving around in different directions, and you will see how the light changes on your skin. This is a really good tool to see the direction of the light (and shadows) as well as its strength and softness/hardness. You might get some funny looks from other people, but it’s well worth it.”
3. Embrace the golden hour
“Depending on where you are in the world, try to avoid midday hours for an outdoor shoot,” the London-based photographer Carlotta Cardana suggests. “The light is usually really strong and creates unflattering shadows for your subject. Try to plan your shoots early in the morning or in the late afternoon. During that time, the sun is lower; the light is warmer, and everything looks nicer. Also, if you see an amazing sunset, face the other way when photographing: the colours and light are often much nicer on the opposite side.” Using a gold reflector can also be great for enhancing that golden glow around sunrise and sunset.
“Try to plan your shoots early in the morning or in the late afternoon. During that time, the sun is lower; the light is warmer, and everything looks nicer. Also, if you see an amazing sunset, face the other way when photographing: the colours and light are often much nicer on the opposite side.”
4. Play with windows (big and small)
“I think it’s common for many photographers who are starting to learn indoor natural light to think that they need a lot of windows and light to flood a room, and that’s simply not true,” the Michigan-based photographer Meg Loeks explains. “If you are looking for more of a bright and airy mood to your work, then yes, a lot of light is going to be ideal. But you can achieve beautiful images with a single, small window, especially if you are drawn to dramatic, rich tones. One of my favourite types of light to work with is indoor low light and Dutch Master’s light. Not only is this type of light romantic, but it also creates a dimensional look with lots of depth. To achieve this type of lighting, light often comes from one single source or window.”
“For a more dramatic light fall-off with strong contrast and a dark background, place your subject close to the window. If you find the light is too strong, use light filtering curtains (an example would be sheer white curtains) to modify and soften the light on your subject. Another option would simply be to pull your subject away from the window if you have the space to do so.” You don’t need a professional studio; the windows at home can be just as effective.
5. Keep a light journal
“One of my favourite tips for photographing in natural light is to study the light before you ever pick up your camera,” the Ohio-based photographer Cynthia Dawson explains. “Natural light will always be shifting based on the time of day, time of year, and weather conditions. If you are new to shooting around your home, a light journal may help.
“This is where you can document how the light is falling in a specific spot. Be sure to mark the time of day, month, and location of the sun. The light in your home will change with the seasons, so it’s a good idea to document the light throughout the year while you are discovering how to work with it within your space.”
6. Bring a diffuser
“One of my favourite modifiers—and one that has saved many shoots where I had to shoot when the sun was too harsh—is a diffuser,” the London-based photographer Oscar May explains.
“Diffusers soften the direct light and create a much nicer light, in my opinion. The pose and direction your model is facing are also vital; I am always hyper-aware of the shadows on the face. Sometimes even a slight upwards tilt of their chin can make a huge difference.”
“Diffusers soften the direct light and create a much nicer light, in my opinion. The pose and direction your model is facing are also vital; I am always hyper-aware of the shadows on the face. Sometimes even a slight upwards tilt of their chin can make a huge difference.”
7. Adjust your exposure manually
“As we know, light in photography is everything, and light changes during the day, so you have to adjust to that,” the Sarajevo-based photographer Maja Topcagic admits. “It can and will be unpredictable. The weather can also change, and so your camera settings change with it as well. Use the exposure triangle wisely.” As the light changes, try to shoot in manual mode for full control over your exposure settings: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.
8. Find the shade
Another way to deal with harsh sunlight outdoors is to look for areas of open shade. “If it’s a sunny day, run for the shadowed areas,” the London-based photographer Reme Campos urges.
“Overcast skies are also your best friend because they work like a giant softbox. If the shoot is outdoors, though, make sure to look at the weather a few days beforehand, as the biggest challenge will be rain and dark grey skies. Still, if you don’t have any other choices and you need to do the shoot, you can save the day by finding a sheltered spot.”
Using natural light also frees you up to be more flexible and move around. “I find that people are much are more relaxed in natural light, because it’s natural!” Reme says. “You can also be much more spontaneous as you don’t have to think about making light adjustments constantly.”
9. Keep it simple
“My first piece of advice is that in portraiture, the expression and comfort of the model is the most important part,” the Madrid-based photographer Leire Cavia says. “For that reason, in many cases, less is more. It might seem counterintuitive, but it can be helpful to focus more on the model and less on the lighting techniques you employ. You don’t need much; for example, during one of my last editorial shoots with natural light, we used white polystyrene sheets to bounce the light, and that was all.”
10. Welcome challenges
With all these tips in mind, sometimes it’s best to break the “rules” and try something different.
“I used to be so nervous about any light that wasn’t overcast,” the British Columbia-based photographer Jordie Hennigar admits. “Once I changed the way I looked at light—‘how can I use this’ instead of ‘I can’t use this,’ it transformed everything for me. I absolutely love any type of light now, even when it’s a challenge.
“When relying on natural light, you need to be able to go with the flow and make adjustments at a moment’s notice. Luckily, I am very good at problem-solving and can pivot when needed. When the lighting isn’t what you were hoping, look at it as an opportunity to maybe create something you have never tried, or bring out new colours you have never used. Once you embrace what natural light has to offer, it’s like a treasure hunt. You’re always on the lookout for the magic.”
“Experiment with all kinds of light, literally everything: morning, noon, evening, sunny, cloudy, rainy days. This is the best way to figure out what works for you. This will also help you discover your style and what kind of light you should use to express yourself.”
11. Take your time
Learning to harness natural light takes practice, so embrace the process. “My best advice would be to go out and explore,” Nina Masic, who specialises in fashion and beauty photography, tells us. “Experiment with all kinds of light, literally everything: morning, noon, evening, sunny, cloudy, rainy days. This is the best way to figure out what works for you.
“This will also help you discover your style and what kind of light you should use to express yourself. In the beginning, I suggest taking a few months or even a year just to explore and experiment without any specific goals. Otherwise, you can unnecessarily limit yourself from achieving the results you want.
“The most challenging aspect of working with natural light is the fact that you can’t expect that it’s going to go exactly to plan. To make things work, you have to be prepared for surprises. You have to learn to see the beauty in unpredictable situations and act fast in any given moment. I can navigate these surprises easily now because of my years of experimenting. I’ve put myself in every situation, so I know what to do in any circumstance.
About the contributor
Feature Shoot showcases the work of international emerging and established photographers who are transforming the medium through compelling, cutting-edge projects, with contributing writers from all over the world.